How to Learn a Good Technique

Some general points to ponder about good technique.

1. Some climbers climb very slowly and methodically. At the other end of the scale we have dynamic styles such as that that was practised by Johnny Dawes. Both ends of this scale are recognised 'good techniques'.
2. This means that technique is not about climbing a certain way, it is about adapting your climbing style to make use of your strengths. The slow move slowly because they all have enough stamina to hang on while they work out the best possible sequence of moves. If you, on the other hand, are best at sheer explosive strength it's probably better for you to power through your routes than take the slow approach.
3. Don't do this forever though, because improving is about strengthening your weaknesses!

So how do you learn new techniques?

1. The best way to learn is to watch somebody good while you belay them. Notice how they approach the climb and try to imitate any clever moves they do. Or ask them to guide you through a particular sequence, such as rocking over.
2. Practise them yourself, repeatedly. At first, any new techniques will feel uncomfortable and you'll probably think they are not worth the effort but after a while you will get used to them and find more and more places where they are useful, and eventually some places where you couldn't have managed without.
3. For general training, climb when you are tired - too tired to simply power through a sequence of moves. Force yourself to move slowly and use your technique to conserve what's left of your energy (being tired helps as brute force is just not an option). Plan your moves in advance. Snatching for holds is not allowed: find a controlled way of doing it.

Finally a note on weak and strong points: You will get to know what yours are. Just be aware that on any day climbing, you have a choice to make: work on the weak points, which can be trying (but is in the long run essential to becoming a good climber), or just stick to your best type of route and cruise through it. It's up to you which.

Five tips for beginners

You really can't go wrong with the following advice (thanks Scott):

• When moving up, stay as close to the face (wall) as you can, the closer your centre of gravity is to the wall, the less your muscles have to work to hold you. If your body is vertical, then all you need to do is stand in place rather than cling to the rock. It helps to climb with the inside edge of your feet, not the toes, to achieve this.
• When resting (and you should do this often to look down and check your footholds) straighten your arms (so you don't tire them out) and lean back (ideally with handholds fairly high up).
• Rely upon your legs more than your upper body strength. Your legs are much stronger than your arms so don't just try to act macho by pulling yourself up the face (wall), just stand up!
• Bring one foot up at a time, this will reduce the wear on your hands.
• Try to position your hands and feet on the holds in the positions you will want them in for the next move. This will reduce the amount of switching and improve your speed and skill by making you plan your next move.
• Don't lean too far away from the wall when you are resting, when you are ready to continue it will just take more strength to pull your body back against the face.